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Ukrainian pret-a-porter fashion week
The 22nd fashion week in a row was held in mid-March in the capital’s fashion center — the ÀÑÑÎ International Exhibition Center — where 1,740 clothing designs were showcased as part of 52 designer collections. We were among the 30,000 trend observers invited to the show.
Ukrainian fashion has taken off! In February, the Ukrainian fashion brigade, which included Oleksiy Zalevskiy, the duet of Tetyana Zemskova and Olena Vorozhbyt, Oksana Karavanska, Lilia Pustovit, and Olena Burenina, disembarked in Washington, where their collections were shown as part of DC Fashion Week. Olena Dats presented her collection in Paris in showroom format during Paris Fashion Week. On the first day of spring, “corset queen” Diana Dorozhkina wowed the Palm Beach fashion crowd at Palm Beach Fashion Week. A grandiose show of the Ukrainian prime minister’s favorite designer, Aina Hasse, took place in Milan in April…
After fascinating the world, they returned to Ukraine. Most of them immediately took to the podium at Ukrainian Fashion Week — for many it was the first, and will remain the dearest, much as it is for over 40 other designers who presented their creations this year to foreign buyers, journalists, and clients as part of the fashion marathon.
By Marysya Horobets
Photos have been provided by the Ukrainian Fashion Week organizers
Designer Anna BUBLYK presented her cutting-edge
silhouettes and the fashionable trend colors
of the season — gray and yellow. Glazed leather
the color of asphalt throughout — sleeveless
jackets, boleros, handbags, belts, and footwear.
The designer collection of Olha HROMOVA opened
Ukrainian Pret-a-Porter Week under the pseudo-
cosmic name of “271,” the approximate temperature
in which the universe exists. The point of departure
for Hromova, who returned to the podium for the first
time after a five-year absence, was the idea of neo-
design. This fashion trend confirms that there is no
more natural environment, but only the artificial,
created by humans. Hence, the futuristic look of
the collection and the podium’s decor.
One of the brightest collections of the fashion week,
from Nota Bene&Karavay, referred to the 1980s,
with its sporty functionalism and careful feminism.
The minimalist dresses were decorated with comical
cartoon characters. The hand decor was from
Karavay — the most desired and tastiest morsels
in the designer’s own style.
A women’s collection in the minimalist style from
Anna BABENKO — not one pair of trousers, just
dresses and skirts — and nothing below the knee.
Dramatic colors — even red did not reach the
height of brightness — from a shade of faded
bordeaux to dark coral…
The aristocratic minimalism ideally expressed by
young but talented perfectionist Svitlana BEVZA was
to everyone’s taste. Models promenaded the
podium like modern-day Mary Poppinses — strict,
well-mannered, and intelligent, while at the same
time cheerful and flighty. Dark colors and
asymmetry throughout — the trend of the
next season — the maestro emphasized.
Traditionally during Ukrainian Fashion Week,
“New Names” (6 collections) and FRESH FASHION
(8 collections) demonstrate their creative talents.
Of these, the romantic-lyrical folk collection
“Herbarium” of Katya PSHECHENKO resonated with
the soul with its expanse of handmade embroidery,
applications and trimmings.
Designer Oksana KARAVANSKA transported guests
into the world of night and mysticism to the
accompaniment of a shaman guitar. No sooner
than trend watchers took in the creative handmade
knitwear, evening blouses with embroidery and
Ukrainian Easter eggs, and costumes of complex,
dark, “trendy” colors, than models climbed a ladder
and disappeared in the twilight.
Closing the pret-a-porter fashion week was Ukrainian
fashion guru Lilia PUSTOVIT. Laconic but not
straightforward — that’s the uniqueness of Pustovit’s
design style. A limited and severe color range and
a clear commercialism led to the thought that the
Pustovit collection was rather dry. Be that as it may,
today her collections are sold in Russia, Switzerland,
England and China. Pustovit’s clothing is ordered by
stores in France, Iceland, America and Korea. The
designer, meanwhile, creates in Ukraine, and that’s
the most pleasant of all.
Oleksandr HAPCHUK revealed his “real self,” who is
not afraid to take advantage of women’s dress for
receptions — many-layered, furry adornments on
classical costumes, frills on shirts, gold prints, large
sleeves. Hapchuk has again demonstrated his daring
and sweep through the prism of his bright and
The Zhyvopys collection of Andre TAN was inspired
by Paris and impressionists. The designer “painted”
in his characteristic “smart couture” style a
romantic, trendy and contemporary collection.
Among the highlights were his hat-pallet and
continuum, decorated with scraps of newspaper:
A bit of trash doesn’t hurt, Tan believes.
Designer Eduard Nasyrov created the Mosty (Bridges) collection for the TM Stolychny. “Our life is a bridge along which we move from one stage to another, allowing others at certain moments to move along our creations, as at times, we move along others’ territory…We build some bridges with the hopes for their bright future, and destroy others as invisible witnesses to failed efforts, mistakes and ties to the past.” The designer came up with the idea thanks to the Moskovsky Bridge, where he has often found himself stuck in traffic and thus had the time to envision the collection, which poured onto the podium in the colors of steel-cement constructions, bordeaux, fatigue green, shades of gray in wool, cotton and silk fabrics.
You can try on the Stolychny collection in the salon at 28 Kominterna St., or order by phone: 244-0058.