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Kryshtalevy Syluet pret-a-porter show


Fashion design, being an applied art, has its own message. In fact, every collection, or even every dress created by a fashion designer carry their own messages. Some messages are very clear, others are subtle; the message of still others may be ambiguous or garbled.

The messages presented at the pret-a-porter shows Kryshtalevy syluet (Crystal Silhouette), recently held in Kyiv, did get through to the audiences, says Oksana TALKO who attended the shows.


Kryshtalevy syluet shows are held twice a year and every time it is a remarkable event in the world of fashion in Kyiv, or even in Ukraine in general. The shows always draw large and sophisticated audiences. The latest Kryshtalevy syluet shows were not an exception.

This time, the Confederation of Designers and Stylists of Ukraine, the organizer of the Kryshtalevy syluet shows, invited about fifty fashion designers to present their creations in two nominations — Pret-a-porter Deluxe and Fantasy. Jean-Claude Gitrois, a French fashion designer who headed the jury, said after the shows that he had never seen so many creative ideas presented on the catwalk within such a short period of time. Incidentally, Mr Gitrois had shown his own collection in Kyiv a couple of days earlier.

The French top model, Sarah Marshal, who had come to Kyiv to attend the Kryshtalevy syluet shows, said that she was pleasantly surprised to see Ukrainian fashion design to be of such a high quality. Alina Panova, a film costume designer from the USA (she was nominated for Oscar in Best Costume Design category in 2001), was also very favourably impressed by what she saw at the Kryshtalevy syluet shows. Eugene Vikstrem from Thailand who had seen some of the dresses to be presented at the shows before the competition, at the stage when they had not been fully completed yet, had been so inspired that he had instituted his own prize, Diamond Lily.

This prize was awarded to Ayna Gase for her Mon pouvoir (My Power), which also won the first place in the Fantasy nomination. Ms Gase said that for the creation of this dress she had originally been inspired by a caterpillar — “ this little creature’s movements are very peculiar, there’s power and individuality in them.” But it seemed to me that the message of the image of that dress was of some philosophical nature.

Oksana Tymonina’s Namystynka was a very stylish piece, definitely inspired by the western Ukrainian national traditions.

Quite a few dresses presented at the shows had evidently required a great deal of careful work and a lot of time to make. Among such dresses was the one presented by Natalya Filatova (Calypso). The fellow designers were particularly impressed by the way technical problems of making the dress had been dealt with.

Olga Slobodyanyuk’s Zablukavshy u hlybynakh svidomosti (Lost in the Depths of Consciousness) was of a high class that characterizes her work in general, but this time she was not awarded any prizes. I find her design to be excellent and I am sure she will be luckier next time.

Svitlana Kalinichenko is both a designer and model who herself shows the dresses she designs. Her Dukh chasu (The Zeitgeist) did make a splash, but the admiration of the audience was not quite shared by the jury. But she did get the first place in the Kryshtalevy nadiyi (Kryshtalevy syluet Hopefuls).

Viktor Zavadsky and Tetyana Ostroverkhova who work in tandem received prizes for Misyatsya syaivo (The Shining of the Moon) which was so graceful, expressive and refined that it did evoke some associations with the moonlight. It was the second Kryshtalevy syluet competition in a row that bestowed prizes on them.

I found Viktoriya Baron’s Gagarin to be a superb creation but unfortunately the judges were of a different opinion. She seems to have started moving in her fashion design in a direction new to her. My opinion about the work of Viktor Horyayev and Iryna Miroshnychenko, Bad Boy, evidently did not coincide with that of the jury either. In fact, I saw that many people in the audience shared my fascination and their Zhrytsya sontsya (The Priestess of the Sun) earned enthusiastic applause and some people even shouted “Bravo.” It did not affect the jury’s decision though.

Khrystyna Husina’s Zhertva mody (The Victim of Fashion) presented a bright image with a message which seemed to have a deep meaning. The well-known fashion critic Oleksandr Vasylyev will probably devote some space in the book he is writing to Zhertva mody.

Svitlana Sorokina showed dresses of high technical complexity and of innovative design. Olena London, who debuted at the Kryshtalevy syluet shows, seems to have been well received. Her design was laconic, reserved and had purity of line.

Natalya Vykhrystenko and Olga Kushnirenko combined their efforts to create Ahrympasa which was judged to be the best in the Fantasy nomination.

Lidiya Konstantinova from Odesa showed a collection of wedding dresses and on the second day of the shows won the second place in the Fantasy nomination with a dress inspired by the Ukrainian traditional dress. Her dresses were highly appreciated by the audience as well.

Larysa Dniprovska’s Fata Morgana, Olesya Tretyakova’s Kvitka prystrasti (The Flower of Passion) and Svitlana Hnidenko’s Potsilunok vesny (The Kiss of Spring), each of them so different from the others, yet had one feature in common — they were debuts that did not go unnoticed. Yuliya Zhuk showed a dress which had a good press in fashion magazines, the second time in as many Kryshtalevy syluet shows.

Ganna Chystova and Marina Endourova, fashion designers from Russia, showed their collections outside the Kryshtalevy syluet competition and were granted a very warm reception by the audience.

Tina Karol, a pop singer, added her singing contribution to the nice atmosphere of the shows. Oksana Novytska, the MC who wore dresses designed by Taras Kraskin, Ayna Gase and Viktor Cherkasky, made sure that this atmosphere was steadily maintained.

Oksana Fursa, president of the Federation of Designers and Stylists of Ukraine, said that the quality level of the Kryshtalevy syluet shows was very high and thanked the sponsors — the Myronivsky Khliboprodukt Holding Company and TM Status — for the help they provided in organizing the shows.

One hopes that the success of the Kryshtalevy syluet competition will encourage other sponsors to take part in promoting talent.


The photographs have been provided by the organizers

of the Kryshtalevy syluet competition


From Natalya Vykhrystenko’s
and Olga Kushnirenko’s collection.


From Viktor Horyaev’s
and Iryna Myroshnychenko’s collection.


From left to right: Marysya Horobets, a model,
Mykola Tyshchenko, a philanthropist,
Alina Panova, a designer.


From Svitlana Kalinichenko’s collection.


From Lidiya Konstantynova’s collection.


From Olena London’s collection.


From Oksana Tymonina’s collection.


Sarah Marshal, a model from Paris, wearing a wedding
dress designed by Jean-Claude Gitrois; the dress is made of leather.


Members of the jury (left to right): Sarah Marshal,
Alexis Pine, Svitlana Svetlakova, Jean-Claude Gitrois,
Oksana Fursa, Maryna Kinakh, and Alina Panova.


Oksana Novytska, a presenter, wearing
a dress designed by Viktor Cherkasky.


Jean-Claude Gitrois, head of the jury,
signing the prize certificates.


From Ayna Gase’s collection. (Grand Prix).


From Ayna Gase’s collection. (Grand Prix).


From Jean-Claude Gitrois’ collection.


From Khrystyna Husina’s collection.


From Lidiya Konstantynova’s collection.


From Natalya Filatova’s collection.


From Viktor Zavadsky’s
and Tetyana Ostroverkhova’s collection.


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